Shirts – an indispensible part of any gentleman’s wardrobe (1/2)

When talking about ties, you cannot forget about another essential element of men’s clothing – the shirt. Most men only think about the color and size of a shirt, but when searching for a quality garment, there are many more options to think about. The best shirts are customized by tailors, who will adjust the size and cut to fit each individual and who can change style features like the cuff type, seam colors, or button design. Shirts can also be monogrammed on the pocket or at the bottom of the shirt.

What are the most important things to look for when buy a shirt?

  • Size

When looking at size, one needs to consider both the collar size and the length of the shirt. The collar should fit around your neck with one finger comfortably fitting between the collar and your neck. Collars are measured in inches and available from 38 to 52. It’s best to measure your neck or have a salesperson do it for you first and then choose a shirt.

The size of a shirt is defined by height, which means the width and length are made for the average person of that height. You should find a shirt that matches your height so the shirt proportions match your body.

  • Fabric

The best fabric for a shirt is pure cotton. In the summer, you want a light cotton, but in the winter, you should look for a heavier, thicker material, sometimes called double-ply. Unfortunately, pure cotton shirts tend to wrinkle and it is difficult to press them. There are synthetic cotton blends, usually made with polyester, which are resistant to wrinkling and are easier to press.

  • Color

Classic shirts are usually solid color or have a pattern with just one color. These colors are easier to match with ties and jackets and always look elegant, therefore, it’s worth investing in several different shades. The most common colors are white, ivory, bright yellow, sky-blue, and rose. White is the most neutral color and suits all occasions, but you should select colors based on your preferences and on your complexion and hair color.

Striped and checked shirts with two or three colors match plain jackets and solid ties. These shirts are less formal and are not recommended for business meetings. Those with a strong imagination and good taste can match patterns, but for beginners, matching patterns can be a risky experiment.

  • Cut

Men’s shirts come in normal or slim fit. Men with broad shoulders and a solid trunk should choose normal fit, whereas thin men ought to opt for slim fit shirts. A tailored shirt highlights a thin body and prevents the problem of having too much material to tuck in to trousers.

 

Ties – Selection, Storing, and Tying

When choosing a tie, you need to consider both the occasion and the rest of your outfit. For business meetings, interviews, and work, you should avoid anything too wild and choose a classic tie with just a few colors. When the occasion is less formal, you can choose a more colorful or patterned tie that matches your outfit.

Ties come as wide as 5 inches, but the standard width these days is 3 to 3.5 inches (8-8.5cm). A general rule for tie width is to make the tie proportionate to the width of your jackets lapel.

Matching a tie with a shirt and jacket can be a real challenge. People who have good taste and are trendy can use ties to show off, but others who are not as confident can follow these guidelines to choose ties.

Harmonize colors
Choose a dominant color for your outfit and reuse it on different things. You could wear a navy blue jacket with a light blue shirt, and then choose a yellow tie with a navy blue pattern. The varied but consistent colors make your outfit look more professional. Generally, your tie should be darker than your shirt.

Harmonize patterns
Don’t go overboard with patterns. You should only wear one piece with a pattern and keep the rest of your outfit neutral.

Harmonize fabrics
Don’t wear your summer linen tie with a heavy wool suite. If you are wearing a heavier fabric suit, then wear a heavier weight tie. The same goes for lighter weight outfits.

Coordinate with a handkerchief
A handkerchief can be placed in the breast pocket. It should match the rest of your outfit, but it should not be the same material as your tie.

Choose the right knot
Depending on the collar of your jacket and the thickness of your tie, there are different knots to choose from.

Storing
When you store ties, lie them flat instead of leaving them tied. When tied, the tie should reach just to your belt. If it is too long or too short it will make your body seem out of proportion.

Knots
There are many different knots you can try:

  • – Kent: This is a straight, asymmetrical knot used for small collars. It works best for thick ties and wider ties.
  • – Four in hand (also called the straight knot or knot in four): This knot is the most general and can be used on any thickness of tie and with an average sized collar.
  • – Windsor: This is a symmetrical knot that is more difficult to tie but looks more elegant. It is best with broad collars and thin ties. A thick tie will make the knot look too big.
  • – Half-Windsor: This is a symmetrical knot that is best with broad collars and thin ties. It is slightly less casual than the full Windsor knot.

 

Tie – History, Production and Patterns

The use of ties dates back to the 17th century. The first people to wear ties were Croatian merchants who worked for Louis XIII. The King was fascinated by their style and soon the necktie was all the rage in France. These ties were simple muslin scarves wrapped around the neck and clipped in the back with a pin. Since then, ties have become more complex and a number of different styles and clips are used. In the 19th century, the tie became a defining element of a gentlemen’s outfit and has been so ever since.

Tie Production

Tie used to be made by folding up one piece of material seven times until it was thick enough. However, this was expensive and wasted good fabric, so tie lining was developed. At the beginning of the 20th century, New York tailor Jesse Langsdoft invented a way of making ties that stitched together three parts to create one piece that could be tied or laid flat. The best ties are still hand-made, which makes the tie more flexible and helps it keep its original shape. Most ties today are made from English or Italian silk. Other materials like cashmere or cotton are also used, and linen and leather ties are starting to become more popular.

Designs

There are many different tie designs, but they all fall into a few major categories.

  • Solid: These ties are one color and can have an engraving. A solid color tie matches almost any suit, especially when the shirt is made of a thicker material like double ply cotton.
  • Striped: These ties make a perfect choice for both day and night. It is a classic look which is even more stylish if the colors match your shirt and jacket.
  • Pinstripes: This is like a striped tie, but with multiple colors. This is another classic tie which can be matched to the rest of your outfit.
  • Patterned: Ties with patterns can be bold or subtle. It can be a simple geometric pattern or a picture of animals or plants.

If you are choosing the tie, keep in mind the occasion. The more formal the occasion, the more conservative should be you tie. And if you deal with clients money or make strategic decisions, make sure you wear a solid one color tie, as it represents the authority.

 

 

Dress Code

A dress code is a set of rules concerning the appropriate outfits for social, professional, or religious occasions. Even though dress code is most common in professional settings, there are other events in which dress code is important. The rules can be clearly specified and written, or they may be more conventional. In the past, dress codes were very strict and were used to distinguish the elites from the working class. Now, we are free to wear what we want, but there are still important conventions to follow, especially in the professional setting.

A company’s dress code is a set of rules about how employees should dress. It is supposed to standardize the appearance of employees and create a specific image of the company. People care about appearance and a well dressed worked creates a better image of a company. Dress codes vary based on the type of business. A more creative company, like an advertising firm, would have a more relaxed dress code than a company where building authority is important, like a bank. Most dress codes cover the following things:

  • Personal hygiene
  • Outfit type (formal, casual, or somewhere inbetween)
  • Personal appearance (hair, makeup, accessories)
  • Jewelry
  • Tattoos

Wearing uniforms can make dress codes less necessary. Uniforms can also help employees stand out. While some people wear full uniforms, like police officers, others can wear partial uniforms, like an apron.

If there are dress code rules, companies can hold casual days where employees are allowed to wear what they want. In most places, this happens on Fridays. It is important to remind employees that casual day does not mean whatever and outfits should still be appropriate for a work setting.

 

Suspenders… not just for brokers!

Suspenders… not just for brokers!

Suspenders used to be a popular men’s accessory. Like a belt, they held up pants and were a necessary part of any outfit. Suspenders have been used for more than 300 years, but in 1822 Albert Thurston created the modern design that we still use today. Over the last one hundred years, belts have gradually replaced suspenders because they are easier to manage.

Even though they are rarely worn, suspenders are still a classic piece that never goes out of style. Larry King is a perfect example of someone whose trademark look includes suspenders. Gordon Gekko made suspenders an iconic part of the stockbroker look in the movie Wall Street.

 

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If you wear suspenders, you do not need a belt. Pants made for suspenders do not have belt loops; they have buttons on the inside instead. Suspenders that are made with clips are more casual, so you should always look for suspenders with buttons. They should be made of leather or silk, not elastic or other cheap material.

Suspenders should always be matched to the rest of your outfit. They should not be the same material as your tie but rather a complimentary color or pattern. If you are confident in your style, you can match your suspenders to the color of your socks.

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